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Installing Drywall
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CAUTION!
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Determine where the electrical
wiring is located before you pound in that first
nail.
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For additional information, see our Fix-It Guide articles on Fixing Damaged Wall Panels, Patching Holes in Wallboard, and Preparing Your Walls for Paint or Wallpaper.
To redo a wall, hang drywall on top
of the existing paneling. If you are covering smoke damage,
take special precautions. Here are some tips:
- If you need to replace the ceiling,
do that before you begin working on the walls. See our article
on replacing
ceiling panels for more information.
- Drywall is sold in large sheets,
in several lengths and thicknesses. Use the thinner 1/4
inch drywall for covering an existing wall. The longer the
sheets of drywall, the fewer joints you will have to cover. Be sure
you can get them into your home without damaging the sheets.
- Use screws to fasten the drywall
instead of nails. They hold better and can be removed without
damaging the drywall, if you make a mistake.
- Consider renting or buying an electric
screw gun. They have magnetized tips that hold the screw
and they sink the screws to the proper depth.
- Place drywall sheets horizontally
on the wall. Hang upper panels first. Don't make joints
at the corners of doors or windows. This increases the potential
for cracks to develop. Instead, bridge openings with a drywall
sheet and cut out with a saw.
- For maximum strength, stagger the
joints. Vertical seams on upper panels should not meet those
on lower panels.
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Removing
Smoke Odor from Walls and Ceilings
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If your walls retain smoke
odor from fire damage, do not remove wall panels.
This will only spread the odor. Wash the walls
with household cleaner. Let dry. Seal the walls
with a pigmented shellac found at home centers
and paint stores (e.g., Kilz, Bins or XTM). Cover
the walls with drywall, wallpaper or paint. For
ceilings, scrape off texturing compound, then
wash and seal.
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Materials
you will need:
- ¼ inch drywall sheets
- 1 5/8 inch drywall screws
- Wooden wedge
- Joint compound
- Drywall tape
- Fine-grit sandpaper
Tools
you will need:
- Measuring tape
- Chalk line
- Straightedge
- Utility knife
- Electric screw gun
- Keyhole saw
- 6-inch taping knife
- 12-inch mud knife
- 4-inch corner knife (optional)
- Dust mask
Hanging
Drywall
Step 1: Before You Begin
Remove molding, baseboards, batten strips,
outlet covers and wall switches.
Step 2: Measure & Cut
With a chalk line or straightedge, mark
cut line. Score deeply with a utility knife. Stand the sheet
on edge and snap the cut segment back. Slice the backing with
knife.
Step
3: Hang Panel
Start at the corner. Place first wall
panel tightly against ceiling. If panel edge doesn't center
on wall stud, trim it back until it does.
Step 4: Fasten Panel
Use 1-5/8 inch screws to secure to stud.
Drive screws 3/8 inch minimum from edge of panel. Place screws
minimum of 12 inches apart along the stud. Set screws just
below the surface of the drywall, but don't break the paper
facing.
Step
5: Fit Upper Panels
Keep joints snug. Avoid making joints
at doors and windows. Place a sheet across opening and cut
out with a saw.
Step
6: Cut Around Outlets
Measure from edge of box to edge of
last panel. Measure from the floor to the top and bottom of
the box. Cut out with saw.
Step
7: Fit Lower Panels
Place panel in position. For a tight
fit, use wooden wedge to lift lower panel firmly against upper.
Screw to wall studs.
Finishing
the Drywall
To smooth the surface for painting or
wallpapering, the joints and fasteners need to be hidden.
There are three types of joints: tapered
(factory-indented), non-tapered (edges you cut yourself) and
inside corners. The first coat is applied differently for
each joint, as well as for covering drywall screw indentations.
First
Coat of Joint Compound
Non-tapered
Joint
Apply thin bed (1/16 inch) of compound
(mud). Press tape into mud and cover with another thick layer
of compound.
Tapered
Joint
Step A:
With 6-inch taping knife held at a 45
degree angle, fill tapered joint with compound.
Step
B:
Center tape over joint. Press into mud
coat. Cover with smooth, thin layer of mud. Allow to dry.
Inside
Corner
Apply compound. Fold tape down the center
and press into corner. Cover each side with thin layer of
mud.
Screw
Indentations
Cover screw heads with compound, passing
over indentations several times to fill depressions. Scrape
away any excess.
Fix-It-Tips!
A quick wipe with a damp sponge will
smooth out any knife marks after joint compound has begun
to set up.
Finishing
Steps
Step
1: Second Coat
Be sure the first coat is dry. Apply
compound with a 12-inch taping knife. Feather the edges. On
non-tapered joints, spread feathering out 10 to 12 inches
to minimize the seam.
On inside corners, do one side, let
compound dry, then do second side, or use a corner knife.
Cover screw heads with second coat.
Feather the edges.
Step 2: Third Coat
Thin compound with water. Apply a light
coating over all mudded areas. Let dry.
Step
3: Sand
Put a dust mask over your nose and mouth.
Sand lightly to smooth mudded surface.
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