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> Foundation / Tie-Downs
> Interior Walls
> Removing Pet Odor
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> Water Heater
> Windows

Flooring

Q. We had a leaky kitchen sink drain six months ago. It appeared to be minor and was fixed the same day it was noticed. Now when we walk across the floor there are some spongy spots in the floor about five feet from the kitchen sink. Could a sub floor rot away in six months?

A. The subfloor material is often an indicator as to how quickly it will decay or rot. Particleboard will deteriorate rapidly. Orient Strand Board (OSB) is good stuff, but water will eventually affect it. Plywood will last with water, but will eventually start to delaminate as well.

It is possible for wood to rot in six months time. Water may have gotten between the vinyl and the subfloor and ran to the lowest point in the room. It depends on whether it is one-piece sheet vinyl or individual 12" vinyl squares. Water will not penetrate sheet vinyl, rather it will look for an opening, such as around a drainpipe, or wherever there is a hole in the floor. On the squares, water will just look for an edge. It sounds like the area of damage is near the center of the room, which is probably a high traffic area.

Wear and tear may be a contributing factor as well. It also could be that your home is sitting close to the ground with a crawl space and moisture may be contributing to the decay. When you start your work, be sure to check the ground for a vapor barrier.

Foundation / Tie-Downs

Q. When placing a manufactured home on a poured wall basement foundation, how is it anchored or fastened down?

A. Typically, the information concerning anchoring a home to a poured wall foundation comes from the home's manufacturer, as each home's specifications may vary in their requirements. In general, beams are placed width-ways across the home for a double-wide home or a sectional home. These beams are secured to the foundation and the home is secured to the beams. Some manufacturers will incorporate the I-beam into the foundation for further stability.

Q. Where can I get information about placing our manufactured home on a foundation?

A. If you know the manufacturer of the home, you can contact the plant where the home was made. Or you can contact your state, regional and national organization, pertaining to installing homes on a foundation.

Another contact may be your local dealership. They may be able to set you up with a company in your area who can do foundation work.

Obviously there is a lot more work involved than simply digging a hole and setting the home on it.

Q. Are tie-downs necessary for a manufactured home with a full basement?

A. The home manufacturer determines if tie-downs are needed on a home with a full basement. It also depends on where the home is located and in which wind zone it is located. If the home was just simply 'placed' on the basement, then I would suggest some sort of anchoring system. But if the home was bolted or secured to the basement walls, then you may be ok.

Contact the dealer or manufacturer to determine what they recommend. Tell them the home is on a basement and whether or not it is secured. Also find out what wind zone you are in. You can get this information by calling your state's mobile home association.

Check out our Fix-It Guide article on installing tie-downs and anchors for more information.

Interior Walls

Q. Our manufactured home has paneling covered with what appears to be contact wallpaper. Is there any way to paint over this and take the strips off, or do we have to wallpaper?

A. It sounds like you have wall panels called VOG (vinyl on gypsum). These individual panels are put up with batten strips, which hide the wall panel seams. You can do several things:

First, you can wallpaper everything. This can turn out ok, but manufactured homes tend to shift and settle, and the wallpaper can crack along the seams if you take down the batten strips prior to papering. Or, you can get raised areas from the batten strips underneath if you leave the batten strips on the walls.

Clean the walls to get a smooth surface for paint or for wallpaper to adhere to. A half-and-half mixture of ammonia and water works well. Be sure to open the windows for ventilation.

Once the batten strips have been removed, you can fill the seams with spackle. Sand the seams and apply a second coat of spackle. Prior to hanging the wallpaper, paint the walls with at least one coat of primer. Be sure to add a second coat of primer to the seams to prevent spackle from shrinking or cracking.

If you have a dark original wall pattern, you can buy a product called Kilz that will act as a primer. It is also recommended to hang liner paper horizontally on the walls. This provides a solid backer and adds strength to the wall surface. Finally, you can install the wallpaper.

If you do not like to hang wallpaper, you can remove the batten strips, spackle the seams and apply a coat or two of primer to fully cover the original pattern and to keep the spackle from cracking. Cracking joints was mentioned above and does happen in manufactured homes. Be prepared for touch-up repairs. The purpose of the batten strips is to cover the expansion joints.

Depending on how ambitious you are, you can gut rooms and hang sheetrock, tape, mud and paint. But this is time consuming and dusty.

If you need information about painting interior walls, check out our Interior Decorating section.

Removing Pet Odor

Q. The previous owner of my manufactured home had cats. Any suggestions on getting rid of the odor they left behind which is mainly in the front bathroom, bedroom and vents? When the heater comes on, the smell is even worse. Can this odor be removed?

A. You can try a few different ways of removing pet odors. You'll find a spray called "Odor Destroyer" on www.odordestroyer.com which costs around $18. You can also try replacing the carpet or deep cleaning it. You may also want to replace the carpet pad.

The cat urine likely didn't stop at the carpet pad, but may have soaked into the subfloor. You can check this out by looking for any stains. Two solutions for this are: 1) Replace any soft damaged areas or, 2) Buy a gallon of Kilz and paint the subfloor. This will seal in the stains and odors and should solve the problem.

It sounds like the smell has gotten into the ductwork, or maybe the furnace filter needs to be replaced. Contacting a cleaning company to clean out the ductwork may be worthwhile, not only to remove odors but to clean out any other debris.

Roof

Q. Can you recommend the types of products to use to coat a metal roof and where to find them?

A. Many materials are on the market--Kool-Seal and Dewitts are probably the best known. Much of this can be found at home improvement stores such as Home Depot. It usually comes in five-gallon buckets, one-gallon containers and quarts.

Another product is called Snow Roof Systems. Kool-Seal and Dewitts also offer patching products if you need them.

To coat a previously coated roof, scrape off the old coating as best as possible, so the new coating can adhere to the roofing metal. Otherwise, if you coat right over the old stuff and it is already peeling, the new coating will peel off right with the old.

If possible, make your repairs from a ladder rather than walking on the roof. If you must walk on the roof, watch where you step. Always put your weight on the rafters, which are usually spaced every 16 to 24 inches. You can also put your weight on the edge of the roof.

Even better, bring up a large board at least ½" thick, 2 feet wide and 4 feet long. Place the board so it runs across the rafters. Put your weight on the board to prevent breaking a seam. Do not use a board on a steep pitch - it could slide off.

See our Fix-It Guide article on coating a metal roof for more information.

Q. Several cracks have developed in the plasterboard in my home near the ceiling and in corners. I replaced the wallboard and did a good taping job, but the cracks are coming back. I recently noticed that I have NO roof vents at all. Could this somehow cause the plasterboard to crack? There are no stains from moisture, just cracks. What would be the result in a house that has no roof vents?

A. Vents are vital to the roof/attic cavity.

I have heard that heat buildup in the attic has to go somewhere and when the heat expands, it finds the weak spots. This may be the cause of the cracking, since you mentioned there are no water stains.

There should be one roof vent for every 150 sq. ft of roof surface. Either a ridge vent or the 'turtle vents.' Without vents, the next problem is going to be to the roof decking and shingles.

I suggest you look into the venting situation soon.

For information about repairing a roof leak or shingle repair, check out our Fix-It Guide.

Water Heater

Q. The overflow pipe on our older water heater drips at the bottom all the time. Should it be doing this? Is there a way to correct it?

A. The average life of a water heater is 12 years. It may be time for a new, higher efficiency water heater. A concern is that the water is always near the top of the water heater tank. The pipe should not be dripping all the time. Damage will occur to the floor or get under the water heater and rust the bottom. A simple solution would be to hook up a hose to the overflow pipe and down to the drain in the floor. Replacement parts can also be purchased, usually at a local home improvement store. Buying a new water heater may pay for itself in three to five years, and may be a more cost-effective solution for you to consider.

It's also a good idea to inspect your floor to make sure it has not been damaged or weakened by water. If you purchase a new water heater be sure to carefully examine the flooring area and repair any damage before the installation of the new water heater.

You'll find more information about water heaters in this article from our Fix-It Guide.

Windows

Q. We installed vinyl windows but they didn't have a frame around the outside. After you get the window in, how do you frame around it to make it look good? Also, is the window supposed to be loose? There were no holes to put screws in to attach it to the inside framing.

A. A vinyl window usually has an exterior flange and is installed from the outside and pushed in. The nails are put through the flange into the exterior sheathing to hold it in place. The window should not be loose. You may need to use shims to secure it into place and nails or screws to hold the window in place. If it is a vinyl window, the flange is there to hold the window in place.

In some residing work, windowsills, heads and casings are wrapped in aluminum to reduce maintenance. Often a brake bender machine is used to fabricate the aluminum. This is then wrapped around the above areas. To frame around the exterior of the window you will use a piece of vinyl, often the same color as the siding, if the siding is vinyl. The trim is called a 'J' channel. This J-channel gives a nice crisp edge for the siding to be put into.

Q. I am planning to replace all of my windows. I am considering using ready-made vinyl framed plug-ins. Can you tell me the best way to seal around the new window between the existing frame and the new? What is the best way to moisture proof and weather proof the installation? Also, can you recommend some good windows?

A. Once you have removed the old window and are ready to install the new window, there should be at least 1/2" clearance on each side and 3/4" clearance above the head for plumbing and leveling.

Once the window is installed securely, fill the gaps around it with batten insulation (the 'pink stuff') or use a foam spray that can be shot in the gaps. (If you spray around a window that is not securely in place, the foam will cause the window to be move out of place.) Foam spray will expand and get in the nooks and crannies. Read the directions on the can. A small shot goes a long way.

If you use batten insulation, simply use a screwdriver or a stick to push it into place. Then cover the insulation with plastic sheeting as a vapor barrier.

If you have to take down any exterior siding, a vapor barrier around the exterior of the window is also a good idea.

There are many quality windows on the market, like Anderson, Pella, Kinro, etc. A trip to your local home improvement center will give you a good visual of your choices.

Find out more information about replacing exterior windows in our Fix-It Guide.

Q. How do you frame an exterior window?

A.
1. Place the windowsill on the rough opening then swing the top into place. A wooden framed window should sit in the room into which it's being installed so it can adjust to the humidity level.
2. Use wedge blocks (shims) under the sill and raise the frame to correct the height as marked. Adjust the wedges so the frame is perfectly level. Use additional wedges to keep the sill from sagging.
3. Check to make sure the unit is horizontally centered in the rough opening. There should be a ½" gap on either side and ¾" gap on the top between the window frame and the rough opening.
4. Secure this position. Use 1/5" roofing nails to secure the lower flange in the rough sill.
5. Plumb the side jambs with a level and check the corners with a framing square. The sash should be closed and locked in place.
6. Check for front-to-back plumb. Place the level on the outside face of the frame and make sure the window is not tilted outward or inward.
7. Drive several nails temporarily into the top of the side casings.
8. Check over the entire window to make sure it is square and level. Use additional wedges if necessary. Check the sash for easy operation and make sure there is an even space between the sash and frame.
9. Nail the window permanently in place with 1 ¾" or longer galvanized roofing nails. Space the nails from 12 to 16" O.C. (on center) or as specified by the window label. Most new windows will have installation instructions.

Q. I want to replace a window in my home. Can you explain how to measure for the new window without removing the old window? Also, can you recommend what to look for when buying a new window?

A. Here are some pointers on measuring windows: The width measurement is given first when ordering a window. The width is measured from side jamb to side jamb. Three measurements should be taken - one from the top, one from the middle and one from the bottom. Then use the smallest measurement. This is done because over time, windows tend to become out of square. The height measurement is taken from the sill (the point against the stool) to the header (the point against the inside stop.)

Things to look for when purchasing a new window are first, quality of construction. Brands to compare are Pella, Anderson, Perma-Shield and Kimro.

Wood is the most traditional frame. Solid wood is a good insulator. Wood does require maintenance such as painting and caulking, but the cost is generally less than other materials.

Clad windows consist of materials wrapped around wood, such as vinyl, aluminum and copper. These types of windows require less maintenance and have increased durability.

Vinyl windows are made with hollow vinyl framework and are basically maintenance free. They are made with chambers to increase thermal efficiency and strength, yet they are light in weight. Newer vinyl windows have framework filled with foam to increase their insulating power.

See our Fix-It Guide article on Replacing Exterior Windows for more information.